Days off Around Fort William – Blackwater Dam

June 2016
Another ‘day off’ Richard and I had during our week’s stay at Bunroy Log Cabins. We’d both decided we weren’t hill fit enough but didn’t fancy actually going up a hill so I took him on this high level route I’d done a few years back to reach a winter Corbett.

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We parked in the Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall carpark as it’s free and right at the start of the walk. We didn’t visit the waterfall this time as, it being so near the road, we can see it anytime we’re in the area and I was keen to get out on our walk.

There is a plethora of paths setting off in the immediate area all with the same start. As the paths all split to head for different places, I almost always choose the wrong one and dither around map in hand for a while. This day was no different but, luckily, as we dithered alongside two foreign walkers, a local came down the path with her dog and confirmed we were on the track for Loch Eilde which is the one we wanted.

The path rises steeply and gains lots of height above Kinlochleven in a short time.

I only took four photos that day and the above is one of them – all the rest are Richard’s digi-photos. I think I was enjoying my walk and couldn’t be bothered with the camera that day. Richard took several photos of Loch Leven from the top of the ascent and his have come out better than mine anyway!

both R Wood – Loch Leven with A’ Chailleach on the right

As we neared Loch Eilde, he took this photo back to A’ Chailleach

Shortly after reaching Loch Eilde, the path was hijacked by some hydro works going on. It was closed off but I couldn’t see any alternative so we clambered past the signs and continued along it – it soon disappeared. I knew where we should be heading so we just set off across the bogs until we reached the bridge over the outflow.

The Mamores were in cloud and neither of us thought the loch itself particulary scenic so we didn’t take any photos along here at all but romped along the good path at the far side of the loch to the high pass over to Blackwater Reservoir.

Pretty soon, the distance and height gain started to irritate Richard and he started grumbling. I pointed out to him that the walk was 12 miles and we were only a third of the way round and with quite a bit more height to gain. I suggested he might want to turn back and follow our outward route back down but, still grumbling, he decided to continue. I even offered to carry his pack for him as I was feeling pretty fit for a change but he wouldn’t let me.

As we neared the summit of the high pass, the Corbett I’d done previously, A’ Glas Bheinn, was only just across to our left and very easily reached from there. I kept mentioning it to him hopefully as I wouldn’t have minded a revisit to it but he didn’t take on.

I was relieved to reach the summit of the pass as I knew Richard would be happier as, in addition to now descending, we’d start to head gradually back to Kinlochleven. We descended the path until we crossed a burn where we’d decided to turn down a ridge heading towards the reservoir. Everyone must think the same way as, when we reached the ridge, a path set off that way.

The path was pretty clear to start with as it had been used by motorbikes but eventually it disappeared into the bogs. The ground got quite rough towards the dam – last time I came this way I was atop the snow and it was firm and lovely and I ran the whole descent!

We passed an amusing boulder with a mossy cap which I insisted Richard photographed – I didn’t really want to waste a film shot on it…

He also took this shot down into the murk towards the reservoir – pretty gloomy!

and an equally gloomy shot towards the Glencoe peaks…

Soon the dam hove into view at last – even I was thankful as I’d decided that was where we were going to have our first and only break..

We had a sit for coffee and flapjack while we watched a mountain biker cross the dam top with his bike – nice to know you can get across this dam – some you can’t… It was so dry this day you could also cross easily underneath it too (still Richard’s photos)

We found a very amusing old tree stump on the rocks here – I said it was a tripod and insisted Richard photographed that too..

We debated which side of the valley to descend – the far side is a driveable track but longer, the nearer side a narrow but pretty track. I was a bit worried about one of the side burns you have to cross on a bridge though as I was sure the bridge would have gone in the winter floods and I seemed to remember it was a tricky spot…

In the end we decided that as the mountain biker (who was probably local) had taken the smaller, prettier path, we must be able to walk it and we set off after him. I have to say that on some of the steep and rough descents I was surprised someone had cycled down it! He must have had no teeth by the bottom!

There was a pretty little lochan with an island which we both took photos of (mine first)…

I loved the cute square peak behind it! We soon reached another gloomy but beautiful lochan and again both took photos (mine first again)

I do find these film/digital comparisons interesting!

There was little water in the falls below the dam so we got to see just how large the rocky barriers below the dam, normally covered in water, really are! They look quite fun for scrambling (my photo)

Not much water down this one (Richard’s photo – as are all the rest)

Presently, we reached the steep corner into the gorge where I found I was right – the bridge had been wrecked!

I didn’t do it honest!

The path coming down to the bridge is fairly ‘exciting’ and, I think, if we get many more flooded winters, will disappear altogether – on the photo below it’s on the middle shelf halfway up the crag wall!

The path from here seems very long indeed back to Kinlochleven and when I commented on it, Richard said it was a ‘female path’. I asked him what he meant, thinking he perhaps meant sinuous? No, he said, it was that it went on a bit! 😆

There was an interesting chimney from an old mine I think – I thought it looked like a pepperpot or a liquor bottle!

Just where the gorge becomes softer and was obviously nearing civilisation, we saw another beautiful waterfall off on a side river…

We were both pleased to reach Kinlochleven and the car soon after this – the path does go on a bit really!